In the (Della) Zona

It always amazes me how many of my fellow Athenians never venture far from Court Street for a dining experience.

Yes, I do love the culinary delights of downtown Athens, but go just a bit further down East State Street to find a real gem.

Della Zona Pizza & Gelato (270 East State St.) came onto the local scene last fall with relatively little fanfare. Under its previous owners, it also served brick-oven pizza; however, its new owners have put their own special touches on it that have made a significant difference.

If you have ever eaten at the Village Bakery next door, you know their management's emphasis on fresh, organic products and their support of local farmers and suppliers. Now they have taken that same approach to pizza, pasta, salads and gelato at Della Zona.

While pizza restaurants are not normally a welcome place for vegans, Della Zona is an exception. Although nearby Avalanche Pizza does a decent job on its "I was a teenage vegan werewolf" pizza, it doesn't feature any cheese substitute. While Della Zona does not use a melted rice or soy cheese, its "Parmezano" (an almond-based variety) offers a great taste. Add to that the option to substitute tempeh sausage for its animal counterparts, and vegans can eat almost anything on the menu.

My personal favorite is the barbeque pizza, which features maple barbeque sauce, onions, and sweet and hot peppers -- in addition to my substitutions of Parmezano and tempeh sausage. The sauce has a great taste and is complemented well by the zing of the fresh peppers. In this case, the more subdued Parmezano "cheese" offers the perfect contrast.

After working at California Pizza Kitchen in my past, I can appreciate innovative pizza combinations that veer from the traditional fare; fortunately, to please everybody, Della Zona offers both. It has 18 classic specialty pizzas or you can build your own. Prices range from $7.50 for most 8-inch individual pizzas to $14.95 for most 14-inch varieties.

To drink, I love their Italian sodas, especially the maple vanilla. For dessert, try the delicious chocolate gelato, the only non-dairy option, when it is available (mostly in the warmer months).

The restaurant is the perfect size for a local establishment. It has wooden tables and a few survey maps of Athens on the walls that provide an interesting atmosphere. Add to that the same type of friendly staff that Village Bakery patrons have come to expect, and you have a combination that makes it well worth your while to stray from the downtown scene.