Salaam: A Hidden Gem

(Click on photos to see their captions.)

In its first incarnation, Salaam appeared to be doomed.

It had a different name back when it was a hookah bar. (I can't even remember what it was.) But when the anti-smoking referendum passed last November, some observers might have thought that spelled its end.

But take away the hookahs, and the place still had three things going for it: great food, great people and just plain charm. So, not only did it survive the smoking referendum, it thrived.

Salaam's menu has a great variety of dishes that everyone will enjoy. For vegetarians or vegans, you will find options in every category: appetizers, salads, main dishes, sandwiches and deserts. Once a week, the special usually works, too.

My favorite dish at Salaam is the vegan harira, which is a hearty Moroccan stew made from lentils. At a very reasonable $4.50, it is served with a healthy accompaniment of pita bread. For an extra $2.75, I usually add a side salad of curried cous cous, a very tasty mix of grains, vegetables, raisins and spices. If I'm going all out, I top it off with some stuffed dates.

The best part is that you get a fabulous meal at a price that is not much higher than a fast food restaurant these days. Compare it to other sit-down restaurants in Athens, and its is a downright bargain.

But Salaam is not just good food, it is a pleasant experience. You'll usually find the owners -- Mark, Hilary and Ry Burhans -- working hard to make sure everyone is satisfied, whether on the floor or in the kitchen. Their servers are just as friendly and will make suggestions if you're not sure what to order. I've never met a grumpy employee there.

Combine that with a unique atmosphere and we have a winner in Athens.

The restaurant is tucked away down an alley behind World's Best Bagels on Court Street (between Washington and State). Look for the colorful mural painted on the building's bricks leading to Salaam.

Once inside, the Middle Eastern decor brings color to a former storage space. There are not a lot of tables, but they always seem to be able to accomodate everyone.

Come during the evening and you might see a bellydancer, a Bulgarian guitarist or Mark Burhans' band, the Coolville Hot Club, which plays a unique brand of "gypsy jazz."

I just can't say enough about this place. If you haven't been there yet, it's worth the search.